CABARET of SPIRITS Atelier ... BLOG VERSION

CABARET of SPIRITS Atelier ... BLOG VERSION
...Photographs should be protected from extended exposure to intense light sources. Limit exhibition times, control light exposure, and monitor the condition of the photographs carefully. Prolonged or permanent display of photographs is not recommended. Use unbuffered ragboard mats, and frame photographs with archivally sound materials. Use ultraviolet-filtering plexiglass to help protect the photographs during light exposure. Reproduce vulnerable or unique images and display the duplicate image; in this way, the original photograph can be properly stored and preserved.

Disaster preparedness begins by evaluating the storage location and the potential for damage in the event of a fire, flood, or other emergency. It is important to create a disaster preparedness plan that addresses the specific needs of the collection before a disaster occurs.

The location and manner in which photographs are housed can be the first line of defense. Identify photographic materials that are at higher risk of damage or loss. Remove all potentially damaging materials such as paper clips and poor-quality enclosures. Store negatives and prints in separate locations to increase the possibility of an image surviving a catastrophe. If a disaster occurs, protect the collection from damage by covering it with plastic sheeting and/or removing it from the affected area. If using plastic, make sure not to trap in moisture as this could lead to mold growth. Evaluate the situation and document the damage that has occurred. Contact a conservator as soon as possible for assistance and advice on the recovery and repair of damaged materials.

PS .If your photograph requires special attention or you are unsure about how to protect it, you should contact a conservator.To search for a conservator near you.






Cabaret of Spirits ATELIER

Cabaret of Spirits ATELIER

Treatment Options for Photographic Materials may include

mold removal
surface cleaning
stain reduction (only if possible and safe to do so)
tape and adhesive removal
separation from poor quality mounts
consolidation of cracked or flaking emulsion
mending tears or breaks
conservation of cased photographs and case repair
daguerreotypes
ambrotypes
ferrotypes
electro-cleansing of tarnished daguerreotypes
rehousing options
four-flap enclosures
clamshell boxes
polyester sleeves
encapsulation
conservation framing

PRESERVING & PROTECTING PHOTOGRAPHS

PRESERVING & PROTECTING PHOTOGRAPHS
Hundreds of millions of photographs have been lost over the years to natural disasters, wars, and the age-old urge to clean house. So there is something special about every old photograph that's survived. Someone decided to make it... someone else, to buy it... and a lot of someones decided to keep it over the years. Whether you're the caretaker of a treasured family album or a collector who has searched out the classics of photography, it's important to preserve and protect the images you value. Fortunately, there is new information about what to do and what to avoid. And there are specialized products available to help.

...

...

"most viewed this week on the years"

Me: I am modern day alchimist practicing photographic process of the 19th Century and the handcraft

Me: I am modern day alchimist practicing photographic process of the 19th Century and the handcraft

last year

Red light district

"When he died, 89 glass-plate negatives were found in his desk showing prostitutes taken in around 1912 in ‘Storyville‘ the red ...

my website

about me "work and lifestyle"

My photo
~ *~ It all starts as a photographer... the path leads me to specialized in the conservation & application of fine art and historic photographs and restoration of paper ... working in my Boudoir, CABARETøf SPIRITS ~ *~

Archive you missed the past months


Showing posts with label glass. Show all posts
Showing posts with label glass. Show all posts

Tuesday, 29 October 2019

Waiting for the magical effect.




HAVING examined carefully the plate of glass, and removed from its surface any adhering fibre or dust, take it in the left hand, holding it with the forefinger and thumb by the upper left-hand corner, and with the bottle of iodized collodion in the other hand, pour from the bottle on to the glass, towards the upper right-hand corner, such a quantity of the solution as will run in a body freely.
Whilst pouring the iodized collodion on to the glass, tilt the glass slightly towards the upper right-hand corner, and when this is reached, incline the glass to the upper left-hand corner, but not touching it, to avoid coming in contact with the thumb of the left hand; this corner passed, run the iodized collodion down towards the lower left-hand corner, and finally incline the glass to the lower right-hand corner, at the same time holding the glass upright over the neck of the bottle (which should be retained in the right hand whilst the operation is going on), to allow the superfluous collodion to drain off into the bottle; during the time it is draining, move the plate vertically backwards and forwards over the neck of the bottle, to prevent the furrowed appearance the film is likely to assume if allowed to drain quietly to the lower right-hand corner.
To perform the above operation with certainty, requires a steady hand, and some little practice. After the glass has drained for a few seconds, and the collodion has ceased running from the plate, it should be immersed in the exciting bath; from five to twenty seconds may elapse between the two operations; if the drying is prolonged, the sensibility and evenness of the coating are injured, and the iodide of silver is liable to be thrown out from the film on to its surface.
Very often, in dry, hot weather, the plate will require to be immersed in the exciting bath directly the film has set; if the plate has been allowed to dry too much, the iodide from the upper part of the plate will most likely be thrown out on to the surface of the film, and be washed away by the liquid in the exciting bath. Care should be taken not to breathe upon the surface of the glass during the operation of pouring on the iodized collodion.




OXIDE OF SILVER.
Sym: AG + O.
Eq. 116. Silver 108 + Oxygen 8

Oxide of silver can be obtained from a solution of nitrate of silver, by the addition of a solution of pure potassa, or soda; oxide of silver is set free and falls as an insoluble brown powder; it should be repeatedly washed to remove all traces of the excess of potassa, or soda,and the nitrate of the alkali formed. After washing, it should be thrown upon a clean linen filter to drain, and afterwards dried; or it can be preserved in a moist state in a wide-mouthed bottle.

CHLORIDE OF SILVER.
Sym: AG + C.
Eq. 144. Silver 108 + Chlorine 36

Chloride of silver is most conveniently formed by the addition of a solution of common salt, (chloride of sodium,) to a solution of nitrate of silver. It falls readily as a white precipitate, and should be repeatedly washed, to free it from the excess of common salt, and the nitrate of soda formed during the process. After washing, it may be collected on a linen filter, and subjected to pressure to free it from moisture, and then dried, or it may be preserved in a moist state. It is soluble in ammonia, hyposulphite of soda, iodide and cyanide of potassium.




Thursday, 15 March 2012

La vulva d'oro del Risorgimento

!click the title!



The mid-nineteenth century saw the simultaneous birth of couture, photography, and modern art. For women of the Italian aristocracy, as well as the aspiring bourgeoisie, the three arts provided a new world of spectatorship and self-satisfaction. Virginia Oldoini, Countess Castiglione, was a voracious client of both couture and photography, acquiring fashion from the new maisons de couture of Worth and Pingat.



Albumen silver print, from glass negative

Pierre-Louis Pierson (1822-1913)
In 1844 Pierre-Louis Pierson began operating a studio in Paris that specialized in hand-colored daguerreotypes. In 1855 he entered into a partnership with Léopold Ernest and Louis Frederic Mayer, who also ran a daguerreotype studio. The Mayers had been named "Photographers of His Majesty the Emperor" by Napoleon III the year before Pierson joined them. Although the studios remained at separate addresses, Pierson and the Mayers began to distribute their images under the joint title "Mayer et Pierson," and together they became the leading society photographers in Paris.
Pierson's 1861 photographs of the family and court of Napoleon III sold very well to the public. Pierson and Leopold Mayer soon opened another studio in Brussels, Belgium, and began photographing other European royalty. After Mayer's retirement in 1878, Pierson went into business with his son-in-law Gaston Braun, whose father was the photographer Adolphe Braun









Albumen is the clear 'white' of hen's eggs, and is used to hold the light sensitive salts used to make a print on the top of the paper surface. They can be regarded as a development of the Salted paper print, and there is some overlap between the two processes.
Albumen Prints

Sunday, 31 October 2010

Stereo wet collodion



Shall devote a chapter to the stereograph and its philosophy;in this I shall simply give plain instructions for taking the stereoscopic negative by the wet collodion process.


private collection

In the ordinary stereoscopic negative, as in every negative, the pictures are laterally inverted, and when printed, this inversion is corrected only for each picture individually, for the right-side picture is still inverted and in the place of the left-side picture. In consequence of this, the printed stereographs have to be cut apart, and mounted so that the right-hand photograph is placed on the right side, and the left hand photograph on the left side. When taking pictures of still life, as also others, where the living objects are not in motion, it is very easy to manage matters so as to invert the photographs on the negative. The method is as follows: Take a large-sized camera-stand, allowing sufficient space for the camera to slide laterally. Placing the camera in the right-hand corner, focus the left-hand lens. Next slide the camera gently, or lift it up and place it in the left corner, and focus the right-hand lens. The space between the centers of the two pictures thus focussed must be about two inches and three quarters. Whilst the camera is in this position on the left side, insert the sensitized plate, take out the slide, uncover the right-side cap for a second or two, and take this picture. Then close up the lens, lift up the camera gently and place it on the right side. In this position uncover the left-side lens for the same length of time. In this way, and in the space of ten seconds or so, the two pictures can be taken in a proper condition for printing so as to produce a non-inverted stereograph. For such work it would be no difficult task to contrive a slide by which a single lens would be all-sufficient; that is, when the camera is on the left side, the lens must slide to the right side, and vice versa on the right side.




As soon as the negative is this taken, it has to be developed before it gets dry. The development and fixing can be performed in a dark tent specially arranged for such purposes. Various contrivances have been adopted in landscape photography for these operations. For my own part I consider a simple hand-cart, with iron rods from corner to corner diagonally, in the form of semi-ellipses, and covered with a balloon-shaped tent, a very practical accommodation. But each successful photographer is somewhat of a genius, and can easily arrange a dark chamber according to his own taste and materials on hand.




Negatives thus taken and fixed are placed carefully away in slides where they can not be injured during transportation home. In the evening, or the next day, or at any convenient time, the negatives are examined; if clear, transparent in the lights, and sufficiently intense in the shades, they are varnished. On the contrary, if the opacity of the shadows is not deep enough, although the appropriate gradation exists between the lights and shades, it will then be deemed necessary to proceed to intensification. Previously the edges of the negatives must be varnished to the depth of one tenth of an inch upon the collodion, to prevent its peeling off during the operation. This is effected by dipping the quill end of a feather into the varnish, and then running along the edge of the collodion and of the glass, with this portion of the feather slightly inclined, so that the varnish does not drop oil; a sufficient quantity is attracted upon the collodion as you proceed. After this put the negatives aside, that the varnish may become thoroughly dry and hard. As soon as it is dry, immerse the plates in rain-water, and allow diem to remain there for about a quarter of an hour, by which time the collodion film will have become saturated iv with this fluid.