...Photographs should be protected from extended exposure to intense light sources. Limit exhibition times, control light exposure, and monitor the condition of the photographs carefully. Prolonged or permanent display of photographs is not recommended. Use unbuffered ragboard mats, and frame photographs with archivally sound materials. Use ultraviolet-filtering plexiglass to help protect the photographs during light exposure. Reproduce vulnerable or unique images and display the duplicate image; in this way, the original photograph can be properly stored and preserved.

Disaster preparedness begins by evaluating the storage location and the potential for damage in the event of a fire, flood, or other emergency. It is important to create a disaster preparedness plan that addresses the specific needs of the collection before a disaster occurs.

The location and manner in which photographs are housed can be the first line of defense. Identify photographic materials that are at higher risk of damage or loss. Remove all potentially damaging materials such as paper clips and poor-quality enclosures. Store negatives and prints in separate locations to increase the possibility of an image surviving a catastrophe. If a disaster occurs, protect the collection from damage by covering it with plastic sheeting and/or removing it from the affected area. If using plastic, make sure not to trap in moisture as this could lead to mold growth. Evaluate the situation and document the damage that has occurred. Contact a conservator as soon as possible for assistance and advice on the recovery and repair of damaged materials.

PS .If your photograph requires special attention or you are unsure about how to protect it, you should contact a conservator.To search for a conservator near you.

Cabaret of Spirits ATELIER

Cabaret of Spirits ATELIER

Treatment Options for Photographic Materials may include

mold removal
surface cleaning
stain reduction (only if possible and safe to do so)
tape and adhesive removal
separation from poor quality mounts
consolidation of cracked or flaking emulsion
mending tears or breaks
conservation of cased photographs and case repair
electro-cleansing of tarnished daguerreotypes
rehousing options
four-flap enclosures
clamshell boxes
polyester sleeves
conservation framing


Hundreds of millions of photographs have been lost over the years to natural disasters, wars, and the age-old urge to clean house. So there is something special about every old photograph that's survived. Someone decided to make it... someone else, to buy it... and a lot of someones decided to keep it over the years. Whether you're the caretaker of a treasured family album or a collector who has searched out the classics of photography, it's important to preserve and protect the images you value. Fortunately, there is new information about what to do and what to avoid. And there are specialized products available to help.



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I am modern day alchimist practicing photographic process of the 19th Century and the handcrafting of unique image-object

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~ *~ It all starts as a photographer... the path leads me to specialized in the conservation & application of fine art and historic photographs and restoration of paper ... working in my Boudoir, CABARETøf SPIRITS ~ *~

Archive you missed the past months

Monday, 2 September 2013

... pull the curtains and we open the windows!

In the 1870s collodion emulsion plates were being used by a very active group of amateurs. Based on the earlier work of Gaudin and Laurent a few years earlier, these were made with collodion that included a mixture of iodides, bromides, and silver nitrate. Once again the plates were too slow for anything but landscape work, but they were more convenient in the field and led the way for the commercial introduction of collodiochloride printing-out papers and eventually silver bromide gelatin emulsions. Collodio-bromide emulsions sensitized with dyes were also used for three-color processes until the First World War.
In the 19th century, collodion on glass positives made in camera were called alabasterines, collodion positives on glass, daguerreotypes on glass, daguerreotypes without reflection, verreotypes, and ambrotypes. These were made on either clear glass requiring a dark backing or on dark glass, often called ruby glass, although it was not always red. Images made on metal were introduced as melainotypes. Another manufacturer called these ferrotypes. Before long the general public called all of the iron-plate collodion positives tintypes.

...The wet collodion process was used for commercial portrait and landscape photography until it was replaced by the silver bromide gelatin dry plate in the mid-1880s. It continued to be used by some tintypists until the turn of the century, long after gelatin emulsion tintype plates were introduced. The graphic arts industry used wet plates until the mid-20th century for the production of halftone-screened negatives. These were often stripped from the original glass support and applied to a multiple negative for exposure onto zinc plates for printing.